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Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Cummins Head Studs 247-4202 ARP Bolts

ARP Head Studs & Fasteners

ARP's factory Tech Representatives are often asked which is better, cylinder head studs or bolts. The answer, invariably, depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicle, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it's probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car.

For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing power plant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment.

Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being "twisted" while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a "relaxed" mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.

If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run. It is for good reason that virtually every top professional engine builder relies on ARP Pro Series head studs for their all out competition powerplants. Simply stated, there's not a better stud setup on the market today.

For openers, ARP uses a premium grade 8740 alloy that is rated far superior to "aircraft" quality. Each stud is placed vertically in special racks and precisely heat-treated to 200,000 psi. This procedure ensures complete heat penetration and the results are far superior to those lesser quality studs from other manufactures who just dump pieces in a packet and hope for the best.

Following heat-treat, each stud is centerless ground to make it as close to perfectly concentric as possible. This procedure involves about ten very slight cuts and results in an exceptionally straight part. It's important to note that lesser quality studs are not even centerless ground - the material is thread rolled in bar stock form (mostly before heat-treat, when the material is easier to machine). Because ARP studs are manufactured to such exacting tolerances, you will note that gaskets and cylinder heads literally glide into position and are perfectly aligned - something that won't happen with inferior quality head studs.

ARP studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 2000% (that's twenty times) better fatigue strength than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat (a very common industry practice). It costs a lot more to do it this way, because it's tough on tooling, but the results are well worth the extra effort.

You will also note that ARP offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to the shorter studs) more equalizes the "stretch" of both studs, which makes for a more consistent clamping force - and one that compensates for head gasket compression when the cylinder heads are installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum engine sealing!

Premium quality heat-treat 8740 chrome moly steel head stud kits are available for most every domestic and import applications. You won't find a better quality stud on the market from any other source. Look for ARP stamped on each stud as your assurance of quality. Clearly, they are the best on the market today, and the favorite of leading professional engine builder in all forms of racing.


Monday, September 28, 2015

South Bend Clutch G56 Double Disc

South Bend Clutch

If you are reading this, you might be in the market for a new clutch, and if so, you may have discovered there are many options. This segment was put together to help you choose the right one.

There are many things to consider. First, it is important that you learn a little something about a clutch. What it is, what it does and why one clutch might be considered "better" than another.

When people ask us for advice, we often hear the phrase "I just want the best clutch you have". Most customers believe that if one clutch has a higher power rating than another, that it somehow means it is better. That is not necessarily the case.

There are several reasons you might need to upgrade your clutch. 
You have increased the horsepower and torque of the engine, you may exceed the recommended towing capacity or the truck, or a combination of both. There is also the group of people who build up their trucks for competitions like sled pulling or drag racing.
So when you have people who just drive their trucks, people who work with their trucks and people who play with their trucks, you come to realize that they may all need different types of clutches. So the question is not "which is your best clutch?" it becomes "which clutch is best for my application?".

So do this. First figure out how much power you truck has. This may not be as easy as it sounds, because, unless you have had your truck on a dynamo-meter, there will be some guess work involved., It is important to get as close as you can. Many people don't realize that you can over-clutch a system. A clutch designed to hold 550 hp may not act right in a truck that only puts out 350 hp to the rear wheels. We often hear people say that they "might" add more power in the future. Realize that if you choose a clutch based on that, and you don't upgrade later, you might end up with parts you're not happy with.
Next. Decide what you want to do with your truck. Is it just a daily mode of transportation? Do you do any towing with it, if so, to what degree? Do you want to compete with it, if so how often? What size is your truck? Is it 2 or 4 wheel drive? Be specific. These are all important factors.

Here are some general rules:
  • The hp rating of the clutch should match or slightly exceed the estimated hp of the truck
  • Any truck used for competition sled-pulling should use an SFI approved multi-disc clutch.
  • Trucks that regularly tow 15,000 lbs or more should use a double disc clutch designed for the street, regardless of the hp level.
  • Trucks that are above the 450 RWHP which are used primarily for towing should use a street double disc. A full metallic single disc clutch is likely to engage too aggressively, especially on 2WD trucks.
  • High torque clutches often incorporate metallic linings which may cause an aggressive engagement. This may be even more apparent when towing.
  • Performance or high torque clutches may feel, drive or sound different than the factory system.
Remember, when vehicles are modified beyond their factory specifications or used above the factory limitations, to the point where a performance clutch is necessary, things are going to feel different. By choosing the right clutch for your application, you can minimize these effects. However, some of the differences in how a clutch feels or sounds may be necessary to make the clutch hold and last.

Here are some unreasonable requests:
  •  My truck puts 800 hp to the ground and I drive it every day and I want a clutch that doesn't push hard.
  • My truck only has 400 hp, so I just need a single disc clutch, but I want to sled pull once in a while.
  • I pull 20,000 lbs every day but I can't afford a double disc clutch. How many miles do you think I can get out of a single disc clutch?
  • This is the last clutch I ever want to put in my truck.
You need to realize that each clutch has limitations and that clutches that are built to hold extreme horsepower may not be the easiest clutch to drive on the street every day. So, as I said before, you need to decide what you want to do with your truck and understand that you are responsible for some of the consequences of trying to do too much.
When you are buying a clutch, keep on thing in mind. No clutch is indestructible. No matter who made it or what it is rated for, you can destroy it in a hurry if you don't use it properly. So if you are careful when choosing it and reasonable when using it, you can get the most out of your clutch.

Toxic Diesel Performance
South Bend Clutch

Ats Diesel Aurora Plus Cummins Compound Turbos

Aurora Plus 7500 Compound Turbo System, 2010-2011 Dodge 6.7L Cummins

Whether you bought your 6.7L Cummins to tow, daily drive, drag race, sled pull, or all of the above, you want it to perform at its peak 100% of the time. The Aurora Plus 7500 kit was designed to do exactly that. It is no secret that compound turbos on a diesel engine are hard to beat, and that compounds are designed to make the broadest, flattest power band possible. The Aurora Plus takes this one step further by incorporating the factory VGT turbo. This allows the truck to keep its lightning fast spool up, incorporated exhaust brake, and excellent throttle response. The Aurora Plus kit will do everything you need, without even breaking a sweat. 

The benefits to compounds are clear; low EGTs, fast throttle response, drastically reduced smoke, and much higher torque across the entire RPM range. When you step on the throttle, boost comes on almost instantly, and you suddenly find yourself in the left lane a lot more often. 

The key to a great running diesel engine is efficiency, and air flow is a huge part of that equation. The more airflow you put in the cylinder, the more fuel you will be able to com-bust, and that is what gives your truck smoke free power and efficient power. But power isn't the only by-product of an efficient running engine, mileage gains are not uncommon (once you stop trying out your new-found-power of course). Due to the increased airflow along the RPM range, it takes less fuel to experience the same amount of power, thus giving you better fuel economy.

Once installed, the truck will look and drive as a completely factory truck, just simply with more power. The A/C, heater, and creature comforts are still 100% intact. In fact, your emissions equipment can still be used, and remain completely functional. This system keeps everything you love about your truck working, and simply adds the Aurora 7500 to enhance the experience and top-end power. All piping is hand fabricated and powder coated to last the life of the truck, and keep looking good. All hot-pipes are ceramic coated and heat wrapped to keep under hood heat down. The air-box consists of a high-flow filter and sealed cold-air box that keeps the air intake temperatures down. The fit-and-finish of this kit is truly second to none.

Uses factory HE351Ve turbocharger, and adds the 80mm Aurora 7500. Includes ATS cold air intake system.

Toxic Diesel Performance
Ats Diesel Transmission 

Thursday, September 24, 2015

PhatShaft Towing Compounds

The PhatShaft Series by Industrial Injection

The Compound PhatShaft turbos for the Cummins 5.9L are offered in two different kits, Towing and Racing. Compound PhatShaft towing turbos are built with a PhatShaft 62 as the primary charger with the K31 as the secondary charger. Both the primary and secondary turbo’s on the towing Compounds are wastegated for ultimate control of boost and back pressure. This unique combination offers quick spool up and unmatched towing capabilities. The Compound PhatShaft racing turbos are built with a Silver Bullet as the primary turbocharger and a modified Big Brother as the secondary charger. The racing compouns are a perfectly matched set of turbo's for over 800HP.

PhatShaft Towing Compounds
PhatShaft towing compounds are built with a PhatShaft 62 as the primary charger with the K31 as the secondary charger. Both the primary and secondary turbo’s on the towing Compounds are wastegated for ultimate control of boost and back pressure. This unique combination offers quick spool up and unmatched towing capabilities.

PhatShaft Racing Compounds
The Phat Shaft racing twins feature the Silver Bullet as the primary turbocharger and a modified Big Brother as the secondary charger. The racing twins are a perfectly matched set of turbo's for over 800HP

Industrial Injection Diesel Performance
Several years ago, it was almost completely unheard of for "Average Joe" to have a set of twin turbos on his truck. This right was reserved exclusively for the sponsored "race only" truck. If you were at a pull or race, you might see one or two trucks running twins. But this has all changed! No longer is a twin turbo setup a complete custom built, break the bank part. Industrial Injection has precision engineered twin turbos that will match anyone's airflow requirements, whether it be a daily driver/weekend warrior, or an earth shuddering sled puller.

Toxic Diesel Performance
Industrial Injection 

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flares

Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flares 
For more than 40 years, Bushwacker has been surprising customers with stylish and innovative truck accessories. The company manufactures accessories for the Chevy, Dodge, Ford and GMC, Besides, Bushwacker offers Trail Armor pieces for the Jeep Wrangler. From the first fender flares developed for the Ford Bronco to the latest releases, Bushwacker's passion and determination to craft 'simply the best' products goes on and on.

Pocket Fender Flares

Bushwacker Fender Flares are made to be flexible enough to withstand any environment you put them in. From the debris on the roads to the brush on the trails and any other elements that wear on them every day, Bushwacker flares are designed to never relent to punishment and maintain their style. Made with complete UV protection, Bushwacker flares are also backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty against warping, cracking or other factory defects.
The rugged look of bolted-on flares without drilling through the body. Adds significant tire coverage to keep dirt and debris off the vehicle

           Whether on-road or off, our hardware holds the flares securely in place

Easily paintable to match your vehicle